Cockapoo Toilet Training: House Training In 7 Simple Steps

Last Updated on May 5, 2025 by Simon James

Toilet Training A Cockapoo Puppy

…or newly adopted Cockapoo can seem daunting and often is frustrating.

The good news is, many puppies and Cockapoos can be housetrained in around two weeks, as long as the owner has the discipline to stick with a good, positive toilet training programme.

cockapoo potty training
Patience and kindness pays dividends

I’ve summarised the most important points below:

  1. Give him as many opportunities you can manage for him to get it right. It really is that simple! The more times he is rewarded for going to the toilet in the right place, the quicker he will learn.
  2. It’s equally important that you must never punish any mistakes that he makes during this learning time. If he thinks you are going to punish him then you’ll only confuse and worry him and the training will take much longer.
  3. Find a place you can keep your Cockapoo where it’s okay for ‘accidents’ to happen – but this is only for brief times when you cannot supervise him during training. For example, an indoor kennel or crate or an area penned off in the kitchen (baby gates work well). It has to be a relatively small area, which will discourage him from going to the toilet there. Place his bedding and water in his safe area and also use this space to feed him in. (Please note: if a Cockapoo or puppy is shut in an indoor kennel or pen for long periods of time, this can become a serious welfare issue and is not something that we recommend.)
  4. First thing in the morning, take your Cockapoo outside, stand with him and wait for him to go to the toilet. When he ‘goes’, give him lots of praise as he finishes (being careful not to interrupt what he is doing) and give him a treat. He should need a wee and a poo, so wait for him to do both.
  5. When he has gone to the toilet, you can take him back inside and have a play or cuddle. Let him have full access to the room that you are in – but only as long as you can give him your full attention and watch him – otherwise return him to his safe area.
  6. Take your Cockapoo out every hour on the hour from morning to last thing at night, to give him the opportunity to go to the toilet. You will also need to do this after exercise or play and after meals.
  7. When he goes, praise and reward him with a favourite treat (and write down the time of day that he went and what he did). If you keep a note of this every day, you will find that a pattern of when he goes takes shape. You can then use this to predict when he’ll need to go to the toilet. After about a week you shouldn’t have to take him out as often as every hour.

TIP: There will be times you can’t watch him, so place him in his safe area with a chew toy. It’s kinder to put him in his den area when you cannot watch him, than him sense your disappointment if he toilets in the wrong place.

When ‘accidents’ happen

There will be accidents. You must be prepared for this.

Remember Humans take at best three or four years to get this right; dogs take only two or three weeks!

It’s important to clean up any spray or odour left by accidents. Try cleaning the area with a one part non-biological washing powder / four parts water, or a branded product. This will take away any smells and stains. Make sure you do not use cleaning products that contain ammonia, as this smells like urine to Cockapoos, and will encourage him to use the same spot again and again.

Don’t make a fuss – your Cockapoo has not done it on purpose. If he is still going in the wrong place, then it may be because you are not watching him carefully enough. If you can’t watch him, he should be in his safe area. It’s not fair to keep letting him get it wrong.

Calmly place him in his den, whilst you clear up the mess (well enough it doesn’t become a sniffing place), then let your Cockapoo come back out and it’s all forgotten.

Don’t make this housetraining mistake

If you tell your Cockapoo off when he has accidents you will only cause him to worry and be afraid to toilet anywhere near you. It’s a common training issue that he may accidently learn to go inside but out of sight, in order to avoid the owner’s telling-off he is expecting.

This behaviour can spiral as it makes it harder for you to praise and reward him for toileting correctly, in the right places, because he won’t want to do his business in front of you anymore.

Toilet Training a Cockapoo Puppy

Some puppies may be too young to hold on for too long, as their bladders may be too small to cope. If this is the case, then you will need to take him out more often until he is a little older.

If your Cockapoo poo has diarrhoea or soft, runny poo and needs to go very often, then you may need to change his food, so it becomes more solid. Ask your vet for advice about this. Infact, if toilet training problems aren’t resolved in a few months, ask your vet to check your Cockapoo hasn’t got a medical condition that is behind the accidents.

Remember, some young puppies find it very daunting to toilet outdoors. They have developed a preference for, certain types of indoor surfaces during early accidental socialisation with their early environment.

Summary

  • Make it easy for him. Make the effort to take him outside as often as you possibly can to give him the greatest opportunity to toilet in the correct place.
  • Don’t leave him unattended for too long because he will pee when he sees you in excitement.
    By rewarding your Cockapoo at the right time and ignoring mistakes, your Cockapoo will soon get the idea and be ‘accident’ free in no time at all.
  • If you put him in his indoor den or in your bedroom overnight, he’ll let you know when he needs to go out and this will help speed up the process.
  • Find a friend – having a fully vaccinated, friendly older Cockapoo to visit and ‘show him the way’ can be very helpful and speed up the process.

Good Luck!

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Grooming and health

Last Updated on August 8, 2019 by Simon James

Cockapoo Grooming and health

It’s important to have a grooming regime to keep any dog healthy, particularly those with thicker or longer fur.

Grooming is not just about trimming the fur, it’s also about ensuring the eyes are not obscured, the nails are not too long and the ears are looked after.

Grooming/brushing sessions are also an excellent opportunity to examine your dog’s skin for any growths, lumps, bumps or wounds and to have a good look at his ears, eyes and mouth.

Build into your dog’s grooming regime a pattern of small treats and praise so he or she feels content. This should be the case whether you or a paid groomer carries out the work

cockapoo grooming

Ears

Attention will also have to be paid to inside the ear canal as, like Poodles, some Cockapoos grow excess hair inside the ear that will trap ear wax. “Pluck-it” or “Thornit” canker powder can be used to help grip these hairs which need to be plucked out of the ears either with yours or your groomer’s fingers.

Vigilant prevention is the hallmark of good healthcare for all companion animals. Watch for any discharge from the eyes or ears, as well as evidence of accumulated debris in the ear canal accompanied by a foul or yeasty odor. (This is a sign of parasitical mite activity.)

Thoroughly rinse your dog’s coat with clean fresh water to remove all residues. Towel your pet dry and make sure he doesn’t get cold.

Anal Glands

All dogs can suffer from blocked anal glands, typically indicated by the dog rubbing its bottom on the ground or carpet. (You may also notice an odour.) If this occurs, the glands will need to be expressed to prevent an abscess from forming. This is a sensitive task and one that a veterinarian or a highly experienced groomer should perform.

Fleas

I’m including fleas and ticks under grooming because both are typically discovered by and addressed through grooming sessions. Don’t think that if your Cockapoo suddenly has “passengers” you’re doing something wrong, or that the dog is at fault. This is simply part of dog ownership for you to deal with. Sooner or later, it will happen.

Of course the problem needs to be dealt with immediately, but it’s not a reason to freak out.

Do NOT use a commercial flea product on a puppy of less than 12 weeks of age and be extremely careful with adult dogs.

Most of the major products contain pyrethrum. This chemical has been responsible for adverse reactions, including long-term neurological damage and even fatalities in small dogs.

To get rid of fleas, bathe your dog in warm water with a standard canine shampoo. Comb the animal’s fur with a fine-toothed flea comb, which will trap the live parasites. Repeatedly submerge the comb in hot soapy water to kill the fleas.

Wash all of the dog’s bedding and any soft materials with which he has come in contact. Look for any accumulations of “flea dirt,” which is excreted blood from adult fleas. Wash the bedding and other surfaces daily for at least a week to kill any remaining eggs before they hatch.

If you find a tick, coat it with a thick layer of petroleum jelly for 5 minutes to suffocate the parasite which causes its jaws to release.

Pluck the tick off with a pair of tweezers using a straight motion. Never just jerk a tick off a dog. The parasite’s head will be left behind and will continue to burrow into the skin, making a painful sore.

TIP: If you bath your dog at home in between clippings, do not get your pet’s head and ears wet. Clean the dog’s head and face with a warm, wet washcloth only.

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